|
OLD FLY OF THE MONTH
PATTERNS
This section of the web
site will be dedicated to the Fly of the Month. Each month, we
will take a local fly that has been doing well on fish, and give you
step-by-step instructions on how to tie it. Many of these
flies will be submitted by local guides. Each fly will contain
a materials list, as well as a guide on how to fish it.
November Fly of the Month
THE REDFISH TOAD
If
you are familiar with the Tarpon Toad, then the Redfish Toad will be
a refresher course. Although a little different in the
materials used, the main difference is the size. This fly is a
crab imitation and has been working well on the redfish that are
cruising the shorelines. Since the fly has to be worked
slowly, to best imitate a crab, it is not one that I use for blind
casting. This fly is most effective when you see the fish and
have a definite target area in which to place it.
Materials Needed:
- Hook - Mustad 34007 (size 1-8).
I prefer using sizes 2-6, but you may find some needs for a
slightly larger or smaller version.
- Lead eyes - size depends upon
the size of the fly and the depth of water that you are fishing.
For example, I use small lead eyes on a #4, when fishing 1 foot
of water or less.
- Tail - Marabou; I use two colors
of slight contrast
- Sili-Legs (choose the color of
your preference)
- Body - E.P. Streamer Brush,
Craft Yarn, or any other material of a similar nature that you
like to make crab bodies from.
- Double Mono Weedguard - not
necessary for sand-only applications.
- Thread - Flat Waxed Thread
TYING DIRECTIONS:
Step 1: Place hook in
vice, hook point down and attach the thread. Position the
thread at the rear of the hook shank, just prior to the bend.
Step 2: Take a small
clump of marabou, about 1 1/2 times the length of the shank, and tie
it in, at the bend, on top of the shank.
Step 3: Take the second
batch of marabou and hold it next to the clump that you have tied
in. Measure and trim the second batch so that it is about half
the length of the first clump. Tie in the second batch of
marabou all the way around the hook shank; I use three small clumps
of marabou, tying them in individually, around the shank, for a more
uniform look. When completed, you should have a collar of
contrasting marabou around the initial clump that you tied in.
Step 4: Choose the color
of sili-legs that you want and tie in three legs on each side.
The legs should face the rear and be about the same length as the
first clump of marabou.
Step 5: Move the thread
forward, to about 1/8 inch behind the hook eye. Tie in the
lead eyes, using figure 8 wraps, on top of the hook shank. The
eyes should be heavy enough to make the fly ride hook point UP, when
fishing the fly.
Step 6: Move the thread
back, to just in front of the sili-legs. Take a piece of EP
Streamer Brush (with or without micro legs), approximately 4" long
and tie in one end directly in front of the sili-legs. Without
wrapping or moving the streamer brush, wrap your thread forward,
just behind the lead eyes.
Step 7: Palmer the
streamer brush forward. Make sure that the wraps are closely
shouldered, so that you will have plenty of material for a bulky
body. To make palmering easier, pull the fibers of material
backwards, while palmering it forward; this will keep the majority
of fibers from becoming pinned under the wrap in front of it.
Palmer the material forward until you reach the rear of the lead
eyes. Tie off and trim any excess EP Streamer Brush.
Step 8: Using a bodkin
or your scissor tips, pick out any trapped fibers. When you
are done picking out the fibers, you should have and extremely
buggy-looking body.
Step 9: Part the fibers
down the middle of the top and bottom of the hook shank. Using
your fingers, pull the fibers to the side, creating a flat body of
fibers. Wetting your fingers may help the parted fibers stay
in place during the next step.
Step 10: While looking
down, trim the fibers at an angle. You want the fibers next to
the lead eyes to be shorter than the fibers towards the marabou.
This will allow the fly to "dive" down without fluttering
side-to-side; this will imitate a more natural crab dive look.
As a general guideline, I try to make my fibers next to the lead
eyes about 1/8 inch long, as it flares out towards the marabou, I
try to trim to a full looking body.
Step 11: Take a small
amount of Larva Lace Flex Loc and rub it on the top and bottom of
the body. This glue will allow the body to remain flexible,
but will hold the fibers in place.
Step 12: Tie in a
double-mono weedguard, in front of the lead eyes. Whip finish,
trim the thread and apply a coat of head cement to the exposed
thread wraps.
FISHING TECHNIQUES
This fly is
designed to imitate a crab, a favorite forage of redfish everywhere.
In order to entice the fish to eat, you must make it act like a
crab. This means using short strips, to make the fly hop and
dive. For tailing fish, I often try to place it about 6" in
front of them. If needed, I may twitch it a couple of times
just to get their attention. For cruising fish, I try to lead
by at least a foot. I will allow the fly to dive to the bottom
and sit there. If the fish doesn't rush forward and grab the
fly, I will wait until they are about 5-6 inches away and then bump
the fly. Usually, the fish will slam the fly as it hits the
bottom again. Remember, crabs don't move in leaps and bounds.
Small bumps work the best.
|
